02/03/2020
B-PUMP Ogikubo 2Q
Gym info
- B-PUMP Ogikubo
- http://pump-climbing.com/gym/bpump/
Hold info
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
27/02/2020
Rocky Shinjuku 1Q
Gym info
- Rocky Shinjuku
- https://www.rockyclimbing.com/shinjukuakebonobashi/
Hold info
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
20/02/2020
NOBOROCK Shibuya 2Q
Gym info
- NOBOROCK Shibuya
- https://noborock-climbing.com/program/shibuya/
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
09/01/2020
Rocky Shinjuku 1Q
Gym info
- Rocky Shinjuku
- https://www.rockyclimbing.com/shinjukuakebonobashi/
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
Jumping coordination problem that I did after a long time. It’s always fun! If you hang down with jug and shake your body, You might hurt the belly of your finger that is different from the usual part.I was starting to exhaust, and the direction of the swing was starting to shake. So skills are important for the problem, but physical strength is important also.
久しぶりにやった飛び移る系のコーディネーション課題。やっぱ楽しい。 ガバにぶら下がって身体を振ると普段とは違う指の腹が削れるので、どこまで打ち込めるかは指皮次第な部分も。ヨレ始めてて、振られの方向がブレてますね。下部の練習で吸われて上部でヨレ落ちる。コツもだけどやっぱり体力が大事w
11/12/2019
Climbing House OKKU ROCK 1Q
Gym info
- Climbing House OKKU ROCK
- https://okkurock.com/
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
At first vertical coordination, It couldn't gain more time in the air than flying sideways, so it was more like a dead point. The top was almost as crux as the first move, and I sent with a static way.
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遠征先の定番になりそうな @okkurock の１級課題。初手のコーディネーションはそれなりに連動性を求められるけど、横に飛ぶより滞空時間を稼げないので、どちらかと言うとデッドに近い感覚でした。初手と同じくらい核心だったのが振られ方が嫌な方向に向かってしまうゴール取りで、こちらはスタで解決。
28/11/2019
FLASHH - boulder spot Orange
Gym info
- FLASHH - boulder spot
- http://www.flashh.de/
Hold info
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
This is what I wanted to try @flashh_boulderspot.
With the replaceable circular wall panel, literally we can climb inside the wall. Many actions in one moment, but it comes naturally and not with conscious!
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これぞこのFLASHHならでは、とも言える円形のパネルを取り付ける事で可能になる「壁の形状の中に入る」コーディネーション課題。しっかりと壁に入れれば自然と身体が動いてくれるので、沢山の動きを連続してやっていますがほぼ無意識です。
.
28/11/2019
FLASHH - boulder spot Pink
Gym info
- FLASHH - boulder spot
- http://www.flashh.de/
Hold info
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
28/11/2019
FLASHH - boulder spot 6
Gym info
- FLASHH - boulder spot
- http://www.flashh.de/
Hold info
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
Coordinative vertical dyno.
At the contact moment, Stand on the left foot and place center of gravity to the left for activate right hand. & twist body for next right step. it is simply & nice problem to show how the body balance helps your climbing!
.
傾斜からスラブ面へ直上するコーディネーション。ホールドにコンタクトした時に右手が効くように左足重心に入る事と、着地の為に右足が吐き出されないように左側に身体を捻ることを意識しました。分かりやすい課題です。
14/11/2019
Rocky Shinjuku 1Q
Gym info
- Rocky Shinjuku
- https://www.rockyclimbing.com/shinjukuakebonobashi/
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
Coordination problem that runs on two walls with different angles.
The left foot is kicking in the air while jumping, It looks great, but not intended.
Actually, matching the goal is harder than coordination.
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傾斜の異なる2面をランするコーディネーション課題。
左足が跳びながら空中を蹴ってますが、撮った時にたまたまなっただけで必須じゃ無いです。それっぽいけど。
コーディネーション以上にゴールマッチに苦戦
Gym info
- OO - Studio
- https://onlineobservation.com/s/studio
Hold info
Climber info
OnlineObservation Official
- Date of birth : 21/02/2017 (7)
volume:
Move Holds [Tetris L, I, S, T]
hold:
Neo Holds [FRP 1, 2, 6, 8]
flathold [damage control]
Find your beta for the first coordinative horizontal dyno, Then place your body position comfortable with tiny crimp on the slightly sloped surface of the volumes.
It’s a bouldering problem but It seems like Lead routes because of some endurances and risky top.
I’m happy to make these dynamic movements with @neo.holds and Lead-ish movements with @move_holds & @flathold
.
初手のこっそり一癖ある横っ飛びダイノを自分に合ったムーブで攻略した後は、薄いボテと薄いカチの中で上手くポジションを決める。持久力を求められた後のリスキーなデッドポイントによるトップ取りは、リードルートっぽいストーリーを感じさせます。 ダイナミックな動きは#neoholds らしさ、リードっぽい動きは#moveholds + #flathold (ダメコン) らしさがそれぞれ出せたと思う。
13/10/2019
Son Sangwon Climbing Gym V6
Gym info
- Son Sangwon Climbing Gym
- http://www.sswclimbing.com/
Hold info
Climber info
Jaewon
- Date of birth : 20/11/1989 (35)
- Height : 172 cm
- Weight : 65 kg
- Reach : 176 cm
Climber: Jaewon Lee @jaewon.1120
---------------------------------
Posted from Korea. Powerful pinch problem with @flathold . I like hand flip coordination at the goal.
韓国のジムって音楽が爆音で鳴ってる印象があります。ゴール取りがコーディネーション。っていう課題は好き。
07/10/2019
Climbing Life - 攀岩小館 V3
Gym info
- Climbing Life - 攀岩小館
- https://www.facebook.com/ClimbingAndLife
Hold info
Climber info
yuwen
Grade: V3 (3Q)
02/10/2019
Rocky Shinjuku 2Q
Gym info
- Rocky Shinjuku
- https://www.rockyclimbing.com/shinjukuakebonobashi/
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
Double clutch with a final hold at a low position. It's not always grabbing the top and side hold continuouslyc. It's difficult to be able to choose the bottom from the beginning without being confused by the look and customs.
最終ホールドが体の低い位置にあるトリプルダイノ。連続して上や横のホールドを掴んでいくダイノとは限りません。 見た目や習慣に惑わされずに正しくオブザベして下を最初から選べる人はナイスです。
24/09/2019
B-PUMP Ogikubo 4Q
Gym info
- B-PUMP Ogikubo
- http://pump-climbing.com/gym/bpump/
Hold info
Climber info
masato221
- Date of birth : 26/12/1985 (39)
- Height : 159 cm
- Weight : 48 kg
- Reach : 164 cm
Coordinates the foot hand match while entering the concave corner. Usually, these movements often require the accuracy of how far away the distance is. The key figure is how much you can fold your body with the momentum in the movement.
小柄を活かして凹角に入る形で手に足コーディネーション。こういう動きは距離をどこまで出すかの精度を求められる事が多い。けれどこれは動作の中でその勢いを借りて、どこまで体を畳められるかがポイント
11/09/2019
OO - Studio 1Q ICICL volume, eXpression
Gym info
- OO - Studio
- https://onlineobservation.com/s/studio
Hold info
Climber info
OnlineObservation Official
- Date of birth : 21/02/2017 (7)
Volume :
ICICL volume [BOX x2]
hold :
eXpression [Impulse Volume 1, 2, Pure Mini Volume 5, Pure Flat Edges, Happy Balls Mini Volume 11]
Change the 180° direction of momentum during a single move. It’s impossible without using front abs to stop in that position. Recently I feel that I’ve been bit bored with these kinds of movement,
but still, there are quite a lot of coordination problems that I want to make…
.
全力でつけた勢いを真反対に切り返して止めるムーブを作ってみました。同じ体幹でも背筋とか横っ腹じゃ止めきれないからしっかり腹筋で止めましょう。という感じ？こういう課題、最近は流石に見飽きてきたなぁと感じる事も少なくないのだけど、作ってみたいコーディネーション課題が結構ある…
29/08/2019
